Spammers will be blocked and bombed.
Combi Boilers and Central Heating
Combi Boiler Repairs
You might have seen an advertisement from British Gas (December 2012) about caring for you and your heating at only £79. Thieves and racketeers - British Gas and the rest of the utilities and hangers on like big company boiler makers and repairers.
Reality check: that's for 1/2 an hour! Go over and that will be £250 or more. Minimum. Or sir can take out a £20 a month contract etc etc. Plus the bill at a bit less.
Really its a seriously outrageous kind of legalised theft designed to frighten old people in particular. I wish I could get £200 or more for an hour or so easy work. Its not rocket science. Show me which bit needs replacing and I'll do it! Anyone know a nice Polish plumber?
Ideal Logic HE Combi 30 boiler
Why did the idiots who put together the governments Staywarm grant programme go for boilers with only a 2 year warranty. That's a stupid scandalous waste of public money. There are other options offering 5 year guarantees which is the minimum everybody should go for.
Instructions and manuals
Manufacturer contact details
Called Idealheating or Ideal Stelrad
Manufacturer phone number - 0870 8498056 - try 01482 498494 or 01482 492251 Manufacturer website - http://www.idealheating.com Technical Team � 01482 498663 Customer Service Team � 01482 498660 The Customer Services Team Ideal Boilers Ltd National Avenue Hull HU5 4JN.
Alternatively customers may wish to fax their complaint to the Customer Services Team on: 01482 498241 or e-mail the Customer Services Team on: Technical_CustomerServices@idealboilers.com.
How to drain and refill a Combi boiler system
The information here is taken from a variety of sources and is for general guidance only. If in doubt call the engineer out!
- Turn off stopcock (not really necessary as no water gets in till you open the loop
- make sure boiler is off at the electric main so boiler wont try to fire up.
- find drain cock
- fit hose and open cock, hope washer doesnt't stick.
- open all air vents on radiators to let air in so system will drain properly. Instead of opening/draining all the rads, you could shut their valves so you keep the water in. Then you only need to drain the pipes, and one rad ( eg by the drain cock) so flow and return from the boiler are connected (keeps your inhibitor in the system)
- carry out pipework alteration.
- close all air vents on rads.
- put recommended rust inhibitor in system via a radiator.
- turn on stopcock
- fill system as per boiler makers instructions and open any air vents asked for..refill using the filling loop up to about 1 bar. just keep topping up the water to about 1 bar until it's completely refilled and you've bled all the air our of the system
- vent all radiators.
- bleed pump? unscrew the screw in the middle of pump and do back up when water comes out
- switch on boiler and be ready to switch it off quick if it starts banging due to air lock and overheating. Let it run for a few minutes while it autovents air out of the boiler itself and just top it up to about 1.5 bar once its settled itself
Before you check the air pressure, depress the valve to see if any water comes out, if it does you need a new expansion vessel.
The pressure should be 0.5 bar for a two storey building. There should be a connector on the boiler with a non-return valve and near it should be an outlet from the cold water feed pipe, which has a stop valve on it. The two are probably connected by a flexible braided pipe. (they shouldn't be left connected to avoid backflow into the water main)
- Switch off the boiler electricity before poking around inside!
- Don't touch the gas system - leave that to a qualified engineer